Collagen is a buzzword in skincare — but there is some controversy about what the ingredient, a protein that’s a building block of skin, can and can’t do in topical products. “Topical preparations containing collagen help the skin look smoother because they help it retain water,” explains Lian Mack, M.D. assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital Center in New York City.
“When skin cells are plump and fully hydrated, skin appears more supple and radiant.” Plus, she adds that “collagen rebuilding products help the skin look more youthful because the more collagen we have in our skin, the less sagging we see, along with fewer fine lines and wrinkles.”
Do collagen products really work?
Dr. Mack explains that since collagen is a very large molecule, it has difficulty penetrating the skin’s surface when applied topically. “While applying collagen to the skin may not boost the amount of collagen within skin because it is unable to penetrate, there are ingredients that increase collagen production or prevent its breakdown,” she says. These include:
- Retinol (vitamin A) “prevents the breakdown of collagen by blocking the activity of certain enzymes in skin and it stimulates collagen production,” Dr. Mack explains.
- Vitamin C protects skin from free radicals, which prevents the breakdown of collagen from environmental stressors,” she says.
- Safflower oil is rich in omega-6 fatty acids and “helps lift and preserve skin by preventing collagen degradation,” Dr. Mack explains.
How we test collagen-boosting skincare products
The Good Housekeeping Institute Beauty Lab is constantly testing anti-aging skincare products for face and body that protect and boost collagen production, including serums and moisturizers. Formulas are assessed in the Lab using devices like the Corneometer, which gauges skin moisture levels; the Cutometer, which measures skin laxity; and the Visia Complexion Analyzer, which uses digital imaging to track changes in skin like lines and wrinkles. We also send these products to be evaluated at home by consumer testers for visible effects on skin, texture, scent, application, ease of use, and more.
Here, reviews of the best collagen creams and collagen-boosting face serums and moisturizers, including formulas for body and drugstore buys, as tested by the GH Beauty Lab and skin experts:
